Unused knob holes get plugged before primer, a jig guides every new pull hole, and tired hinges are replaced with the doors already down. Adding hardware to a cabinet painting job costs less than doing it later and gives the whole kitchen a finished look.
Hardware is one of the easiest ways to change the style of a painted kitchen. Brass, black, brushed nickel and chrome all look different on the same colour. Many Streetsville kitchens from the 1960s to the 1990s still have small single knobs or old wrap-around hinges, and both are worth replacing during the job.
We fill old holes with wood filler or plugs before priming. Once the finish goes on, the holes cannot be seen.
This lets you move from knobs to pulls, or change the pull size. Plugging holes shows up as a small charge on the cabinet painting quote. It is much easier to do now than after the finish is on.
A drilling jig puts every pull at the same height and spacing. That keeps the lines straight across a full run of cabinets.
We drill from the front so the cabinet painting finish does not chip, and we fit pulls after it has hardened. Long bar pulls on drawers and shorter pulls on doors are a common mix. We can supply the hardware or fit hardware you have already picked.
Some older Streetsville homes still have glass knobs, cast latches or old brass pulls on their cupboards. These can be cleaned and put back after painting.
We remove each piece before any work starts and keep it labelled with its door. Old paint is stripped off the hardware, and the metal is cleaned. If a piece is broken or missing, we can help you find a close match. Keeping the original hardware is one of the easiest ways to hold on to the period look after cabinet painting. It also saves the cost of new pulls. Older cupboards get their own write-up under heritage home cabinet painting.
Older kitchens often have exposed or wrap-around hinges that sag or squeak. We replace them with concealed or soft-close hinges during the cabinet painting.
A damped hinge lets the door settle shut quietly, which also saves wear on the finish. Some old face-frame cabinets need a special hinge style, so we check before we order. Soft-close drawer runners are another option if your drawers stick or bang.
Hardware and cabinet colour should be chosen together. A brass pull looks warm on navy and bright on white. Black pulls look crisp on cream and sage.
Hardware samples can come along to the first visit or the colour appointment. Seeing the pull next to a painted sample door makes the choice easier. See cabinet colour consultation for more.
Plugging unused holes and boring fresh ones typically adds $150 to $500 on a kitchen. Hinge and pull prices depend on the style and finish you choose.
Your written cabinet painting quote lists hardware, hinges and labour as separate lines. You can supply your own hardware if you prefer.
Old drawers often run on wood slides or worn metal runners that stick, bang or sag. Soft-close runners make them glide and close quietly.
We measure each drawer box before we order runners, since older drawers come in many sizes. Some drawer boxes need small repairs, like a new bottom or tightened joints, before new runners go on. Full-extension runners let you reach the very back of a deep drawer. Adding runners during cabinet painting is easier, because the drawer fronts are already off. The cost depends on the number of drawers and the runner type, and it is listed on its own line in your quote.
We price hardware, hinges and hole filling on the same quote as the painting, with no fee for the visit. Call +1 (289) 207-0024, ask about hardware, or browse the Streetsville home page.
Vanities, pantries, laundry rooms, built-ins and islands are primed and sprayed exactly as Streetsville kitchens are.
We take every door and drawer front down, clean off the kitchen grease, prime for the real material underneath and spray a hard enamel finish. Kitchen cabinet painting recolours every cupboard in the room, and the counters, sink and floor never move.
See Kitchen Cabinets
Older village houses often hold cupboards and built-ins covered in decades of oil paint, and those layers need cleaning, testing and a bonding primer before anything new goes on. Heritage home cabinet painting gives that old woodwork a fresh, hard finish while keeping the trim, panels and shape that make the house what it is.
See Heritage Homes
Oak pushes brown tannin stains up through ordinary primer, and its deep grain shows under colour unless it is filled first. Oak cabinet painting handles both with a tannin-blocking primer plus a decision about the grain before any coat goes on.
See Oak Cabinets
Refinishing removes a worn clear coat, refreshes or changes the stain, and seals the wood under a new sprayed clear finish. The grain stays visible, so when the timber is the best feature of the room, refinishing wins over cabinet painting.
See Refinishing
Fronts are finished in our clean-air booth, and the boxes on your walls are coated at home inside a sealed plastic enclosure. Spraying lays each coat of cabinet painting down thin and level, so the finish reads smooth with no brush or roller marks.
See Spray Painting
Shiny factory doors will hold colour after degreasing, a fine scuff and a coat of adhesion primer meant for vinyl and plastic faces. Cabinet painting works on thermofoil only while the vinyl skin is still tight, so we check every door before we quote.
See Thermofoil and Melamine
New doors and drawer fronts go onto the cabinet boxes you already have, and the boxes and frames are sprayed to match. On price and on how much changes, it falls somewhere between cabinet painting and a whole new kitchen.
See Refacing and New Doors
Putting a deeper shade on the island or the base cabinets, with pale uppers above, adds depth to a room without any renovation. Two-tone cabinet painting needs two colours, two spray setups and a clear plan for where each colour goes.
See Two-Tone and Islands
A vanity takes steam, splashes and hand cream every day, so it needs a harder finish and a proper cure before normal use. Vanity cabinet painting is normally a one- or two-day job and a fraction of what a replacement vanity costs.
See Bathroom Vanities
Condo and townhouse kitchens are usually small, but building rules about elevators, parking, quiet hours and odour shape how the job runs. Condo kitchen cabinet painting sends the doors out of the unit to be sprayed, so the smell and the overspray never reach the shared halls.
See Condo Kitchens
Pantries, laundry cabinets, mudroom lockers, bookcases and fireplace built-ins are primed and sprayed with the enamel we use on kitchen doors. Most of these are fastened to the wall, so we do the cabinet painting where they stand, with taped plastic sealing off the room.
See Pantries and Built-Ins
We spray one of your real cabinet doors in the shade on your shortlist and hang it back up for several days. Seeing a real sample under your own windows is the safest route to a cabinet painting colour you will still enjoy years later.
See Colour ConsultationWe visit, count every door, check the material and write the scope down for you. You pay nothing for either one.
Tell us about the cupboards, even roughly, and a visit gets arranged by phone. A name and a phone number are enough to send it. To speak with someone now, phone +1 (289) 207-0024.
